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DRY GLAZE MIXING INSTRUCTIONS The following instructions and batch measurement guidelines are
intended only as a general reference. Also, none of the information in this
section applies to Laguna Raku glazes; refer to the raku glaze section for
raku mixing instructions. 1. General: Laguna’s dry (powder) glazes are formulated for spraying or
dipping over bisque. To adapt these glazes for brushing, add
Brushing Medium,
Macaloid, or
bentonite to the dry glaze powder in amounts as indicated below. 2. Referring to the batch measurement table, measure water into a clean
plastic bucket. 454 grams equals a pound. 3. Screen or sieve the dry glaze slowly into the water while
continuously mixing. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket often and mix
thoroughly. The better the mixing action the less screening you will need to do.
We recommend a
Jiffy Mixer (ES Stainless Steel) and a powerful electric drill or drill
press. 4. Check viscosity with a
hydrometer. The hydrometer reading should be approximately 55 for dipping
color glazes, 46-47 for dipping clear glazes, 60 for spraying and 60-65
for brushing. 5. Glazes should be screened
through the appropriate mesh to achieve the desired results. (Typically,
80-100 mesh sieves.) 6. Glazes are usually best when they have been mixed and allowed to sit
for a period of 24 hours before being remixed and then applied. Batch Measurement Guidelines For each 1 lb. of dry glaze powder, use the following amounts of water: Application
Water
Brushing Medium Dipping
11 fl. oz.
N/A Spraying
8 fl. Oz
. N/A Brushing
7 fl. oz.
5.5 grams* (5.5g = approx.2 teaspoons)
RAKU DRY GLAZES Mixing Instructions Establishing the correct water to dry material ratio in Raku glazes can
be challenging, but by utilizing a process called slaking, the challenge can be
met. Slaking simply means mixing the glaze’s dry materials in a bucket with
enough water to allow all the dry particles to achieve maximum absorption. Follow these steps: slake your Raku glaze approximately 24 hours - long
enough that the glaze settles to the bottom of the bucket and the “unabsorbed
water” is clear, not cloudy. At this point, remove most of the clear water
leaving 1/4” to 1/2” on top of the glaze. Mix thoroughly and allow glaze to sit
for another 24 hours. After the second 24 hour settling period, mix the glaze
thoroughly to a consistency a little thicker than your final use consistency. To
achieve this desired consistency, you may need to add a small amount of water
but always stir the mix thoroughly prior to adding any water (see “thixotropy”
below). Strain the mix through a 30 to 40 mesh sieve into another bucket, then
strain again back into the original bucket. You should be able to feel the glaze
thin out as you mix it because of the thixotropic characteristics of the
gerstley borate included in most Raku glazes. Thixotropy is “the property
exhibited by certain gels of becoming liquid when stirred or shaken” (Webster).
This makes it important to always stir Raku glazes thoroughly before considering
thinning with water. It is not unusual for a Raku glaze to become slightly lumpy
even after being strained and mixed. Some ceramists prefer that their Raku
glazes be thicker than other types of glazes. We recommend running several tests
to determine your individual consistency preference. Problem solving: The glazes look
different: at different cones 5,6, and on different clays Brown , white ,
porcelain and when applied to different thicknesses some glazes completely
change color when thin/thick. Glaze mixed too thin: Glaze is thickened with
Epsom salts
(will prevent settling at .3 %) |
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